The waves of the Kronbergsfjärden bay crash against the rocks bounding the fortress of Suomenlinna, a sight as riveting as the fortress itself. The majestic fortification straddles six islands that compose the city of Helsinki, and is representative of a long-drawn struggle in Finnish history. Originally called Sveaborg from 1748 to 1808, this sea fortress was the property of Sweden before it was ambushed in the Russo-Swedish war. Later, Suomenlinna stood testament to the time of Russian administration, until the independence of Finland made it the latter's property. Also known as the Castle of Finland, the Suomenlinna draws comparisons to the Fort of Gibraltar, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fortress houses six museums that can be explored at leisure.
This open-air museum was founded in 1909 on the popular recreational island of Seurasaari. The permanent exhibition consists of Finnish peasant architecture, including 85 buildings brought from various parts of the country. There are outhouses, swings, church boats, a tar-burning pit and the wooden Karuna church (1686). The founder of the museum, Professor of ethnology Axel Olai Heikel, is interred next to this church. The two-storied building has perfectly preserved interiors. Enjoy wandering about in the woods and the events that are arranged here, notably the traditional midsummer feast.
Visible from the outside as a concave, pistachio-colored dome, the Temppeliaukio Church is part of a larger structure that is hidden underneath a giant rock. Designed by architect siblings Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, the church is deemed as one of the biggest success stories in modern Finnish architecture. The interiors of the church resemble an otherworldly aura, with jagged, rocky walls that were retained from the body of the original monolith. The ceiling of the church steals the show, slashed in symmetric skylights that encircle the copper dome from the inside. This allows plenty of natural light to filter in, thus bathing the earthy church hall in warm sunshine. The church is also an acoustic marvel, owing to the rock walls that produce more refined musical notes.
Mounted on a small hillock on the Katajanokka peninsula, the Uspenski Cathedral stands as an example of Russia's architectural influence. The splendor of the church's Eastern Orthodox architecture is visible from far corners of the city, with sunlight bouncing off the cathedral's gilded cupolas, and cross-shaped spires reaching for the skies. The red-bricked facade is impressive as well, the result of design work by Russian architect Aleksey Gornostayev. Up until 2007, the Uspenski Cathedral was home to the icon of St. Nicholas, before it was stolen. The cathedral is dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos and has a crypt chapel that is named after Alexander Hotovitzky, former vicar of the Orthodox parish of Helsinki.
Located in the heart of the city, this museum houses various genres of art including surrealism, expressionism and cubism. It also has a collection of Italian 14th-century pieces. The main emphasis, however, lies on Finnish art from the mid-18th Century to the 1960s; you will find the work of Isak Wacklin, and that of Wäinö Aaltonen, whose statue of Aleksis Kivi stands directly opposite the museum. The museum also boasts of an interesting bookstore and fabulous cafe. Call ahead to know more.
The gorgeous University Library, right next to the main building of the University and the Cathedral, is one of Engel's most beautiful creations, completed in 1844. Large windows soften its yellowandwhite exterior, while trees surround the back of the building, making this one of Helsinki's most endearing sights. The outer wall of the library sports a bronze bust of Czar Alexander I and a plaque commemorating the designers of the old city centre, J. A. Ehrenström and C. L. Engel. The interior of the library building is also spectacular. The old interiors are in good shape, and the current refurbishment process is expected to bring even more of the old lustre back. The main hall with its oldfashioned furnishings and marvellous ceiling frescoes is one of the most admired interiors in Finland. The soft, beautiful exterior and ! serene mood of the petite building, overshadowed by taller, more majestic structures, have a calming effect on the whole neighbourhood.
The Museum of Worker Housing, belonging to the Helsinki City Museum, tells about workers in Helsinki in 1909-1980, their times and how they lived. The museum consists of four wooden council houses built in 1909 by A. Nyberg. They include the reconstruction of the living space of nine different families whose periods of life cover the aforementioned time-span.
The Arppeannum University Museum is located in a majestic building with elements of neo-classism. The museum hosts exhibitions portraying the history of the university's faculty, teaching methods and research projects, with a special emphasis on the history of the medical sciences. Academic culture such as festivities and student life also have their own sections. Among the items displayed are various objects and instruments used in teaching and research work as well as sculptures, portraits and paintnings. The museum also hosts a library and archive including a collection of old historical books, documents and photos, with the oldest dating back to the 17th Century. -Paula Holst
While visiting a city, one desires to not only experience the city's entertainment options but also become acquainted with the historic past of the city. The Helsinki Civil Defense Museum in Finland has been customized to provide one with just that required dose of information. Once faced with the cruelty of war, this museum exhibits the latent pathos experienced by the people of the city. The artifacts, toys, utensils on display tell the story of a past that will leave an indelible image on one's mind. Apart from the regular hours, the museum also allows visits by prior arrangement. Call for details.
MustaValkoinen (Black White) is a gallery, showroom and photo studio in the hip Punavuori district of Helsinki. Pop in for one of the exhibitions featuring photographs taken by the owners during their various projects. The relaxed premises welcomes anyone to check out an exhibition, flick through the books of an ever growing collection, engage in a discussion about the presented works or just loiter around. A wireless Internet connection is available free of charge. Freelance photographers may also rent out the studio for their own projects. -Paula Holst
The unusual Hietaniemi Cemetery is within walking distance of the city centre, right next to a beach. It is divided into four parts: a Lutheran cemetery, an Orthodox one, a Jewish and an Islamic one. The very lush, park-like area is popular for strolls amongst people, red squirrels and various kinds of waterfowl. The Lutheran cemetery is divided into two areas. The magnificent older part is the final resting place of a number of famous people, including C. L. Engel, the man who designed a large part of the city, and world-renowned architect Alvar Aalto. Finland's best-known artist Gallen-Kallela, authors Mika Waltari and Topelius and six Finnish presidents were also buried here. There are separate sections for National Theatre actors and the Finnish martyrs; the latter are commemorated by students each Independence Day. Helsinki Expert arranges two-hour tours of the Jewish cemetery.