In the basement of a fourth-century necropolis containing richly sculpted tombs and sarcophagi, this is an exceptional testament to Toulouse's history. In the 11th century, some of the walls formed part of the Saint Raymond hospital named after the canon of Saint Sernin, Raymond Gairast, its administrator. In the twelfth century, the building became a university college. Beautifully arranged, this museum's first floor displays the results of the excavation of the mysterious Chiragan villa, found 60km south-west of Toulouse: bas-reliefs, Roman sculptures in marble including a collection of startlingly realistic busts of emperors. On the second floor are an exhibition of everyday objects and jewelry from Roman Toulouse, Tolosa. The museum also organizes temporary exhibitions and lectures.
Formerly the head office of the old town magistrates, Le Capitole is impressive, with its white marble columns all along the front. Today it houses the Capitole Theatre and the Town Hall. As you go through the Henri-IV courtyard you can admire the work of local 19th-century artists such as Jean-Paul Laurens or Henri Martin, while the Hall of Fame contains busts of Toulouse celebrities. The Square is surrounded by red-brick buildings and the ground is marked with the Toulouse Cross, a symbol of the town's historic past.
This park comprises three large gardens, which are connected by footbridges above the traffic: the Jardin des Plantes, Jardin Royal and Grand Rond. Wide paths wind around old trees, fountains, flowerbeds and ponds, and there are swings and pony-rides for the children. The Jardin des Plantes ("botanical gardens") was created in 1886, and was the venue for the Universal Exhibition in 1887. The Natural History Museum is also situated here.
The largest green space in the city centre runs all the way from the Pont-Neuf to the Pont-Saint-Michel, along the river bank. It's one of the best places in the city for a walk. On sunny days, the entire right bank of the city is reflected in the water. There are even a few fishermen. Bicycles are allowed in the park, and there is a children's playground at the south end. Another good place to walk is the eighteenth-century Cours Dillon, which runs parallel to the park.
This little canal was built in the late 1700s' to allow boat traffic between the Garonne River and the Canal du Midi, made difficult by the Bazacle dam. The banks, shaded by perfectly aligned plane trees, are ideal for walking. Towpaths run from the Brienne lock to the Embouchure port, and there are other interesting sites on the way, including an ancient tobacco factory (now a law school), which is a perfect example of nineteenth-century industrial architecture.
Ground-breaking doctors have worked in Toulouse, Purpan, Labadie and Rochas in the 17th Century and, in the 19th Century, the mental health expert Esquirol and his disciples, Gérard Marchand and Jean-Baptiste Delaye. It is only natural, therefore, that the Hôtel-Dieu should devote four rooms to old medical instruments, which seem so archaic and terrifying to us today. There are also books and engravings depicting various illnesses, which have thankfully disappeared from France. Don't miss the old pharmacy with its colorful jars of various mixtures. For specific timings, call ahead or check the website.